How good restaurant design sets the scene for your dinner

WASHINGTON 鈥� World-class cuisine is as close as your smartphone.

A few taps, a few minutes, ding-dong and bada-bing: Hot sambusas are sitting on your doormat while you’re chilling on the sofa.

Talk about convenience. Why even go to a restaurant? In D.C., restaurant goes to you.

Or some of it anyway. Yes, you鈥檙e nom-nomming premium yum-yums at home, but you鈥檙e not truly dining out. No offense to your living room 鈥� it just lacks a certain ambience.

A restaurant, after all, is more than a place to eat. It鈥檚 a theater for meaningful human connection, so much so that a few New York restaurants have been employing .

In D.C. 鈥� another city full of exceptional food and disposable income 鈥� this sense of theater can be the difference-maker in a restaurant鈥檚 success. And restaurant designers are doing just as much work setting the scene as chefs do plating the meal.

Knowing the audience

Like good theater, good restaurant design should evoke a feeling. It should resonate with a diner and ensure return visits. As Jason Maringola, Streetsense鈥檚 design director for interior architecture, puts it, 鈥淚t鈥檚 really about the emotional experience.鈥�

鈥淚t starts at the door when the host or hostess greets you, and the way that they greet you and make you feel as you鈥檙e walking through the space,鈥� he said.

Matchbox鈥檚 14th Street location (1901 14th St. NW) is in the former rehearsal studio for Arena Stage. (Courtesy //3877; Ron Ngiam Photography)

The space, which had also been a jazz club way back when, spans multiple floors. (Courtesy //3877; Ron Ngiam Photography) — //3877 designed Matchbox’s 14th Street space, which spans multiple floors. (Courtesy //3877; Ron Ngiam Photography)

Demolition at the site revealed a steel and wood skeleton, which was incorporated into the design, along with exposed brick walls. (Courtesy //3877; Ron Ngiam Photography) — Demolition at the Matchbox site had revealed a steel-and-wood skeleton. These, along with exposed brick walls, were incorporated into //3877’s design. (Courtesy //3877; Ron Ngiam Photography)

//3877 took a cue from Matchbox's Capitol Hill location and got adventurous: It put two wooden box-shaped booths above the bar area. (Courtesy //3877; Ron Ngiam Photography) — //3877 took a cue from Matchbox’s Capitol Hill location and got adventurous: It put two wooden box-shaped booths above the bar area. (Courtesy //3877; Ron Ngiam Photography)

A custom copper chandelier hangs above the Graffiato dining room at Isabella Eatery in Tysons. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers) — Streetsense made a custom copper chandelier a centerpiece of the Graffiato dining room at Isabella Eatery. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers)

For one noteworthy project 鈥� the 40,000-square-foot Isabella Eatery food hall in Tysons 鈥� Maringola and Streetsense were tasked with creating a space that comprised several restaurant concepts and dining areas. In a sense, it was nine projects in one at the shopping mall. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers) — For the 40,000-square-foot Isabella Eatery food hall, Streetsense was tasked with creating a space that comprised several restaurant concepts and dining areas. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers)

In a sense, Isabella Eatery was several projects in one, as it brought the celebrity chef's Requin concept together with eight other concepts. (Courtesy Streetsense) — In a sense, Isabella Eatery was several projects in one, as it brought the celebrity chef’s Requin concept together with eight others. (Courtesy Streetsense)

鈥淵ou鈥檙e not forced into being in a restaurant but you鈥檙e engaged within the restaurant,鈥� said Jason Maringola, who helped design the Isabella Eatery food hall in Tysons. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers) — 鈥淵ou鈥檙e not forced into being in a restaurant, but you鈥檙e engaged within the restaurant,鈥� said Jason Maringola, who helped design the Isabella Eatery food hall in Tysons. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers)

At the Columbia Room (24 Blagden Alley NW), Streetsense made a glass-tile mural the centerpiece in a space full of visual detail. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers)

The "Spirits Library" is among many distinct spaces at the Columbia Room. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers) — The “Spirits Library” is among many distinct spaces at the Columbia Room. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers)

Among //3877's many projects: D.C.'s Momofuku and Milk Bar space (1090 I Street NW). (Courtesy of //3877; photo by Gabriele Stabile) — //3877’s other projects include D.C.’s Momofuku and Milk Bar space (1090 I St. NW). (Courtesy of //3877; photo by Gabriele Stabile)

With Momofuku, simplicity and functionality were consistent themes in their design approach, //3877's David Tracz said. (Courtesy of //3877; photo by Gabriele Stabile) — With Momofuku, simplicity and functionality were consistent themes in //3877’s design approach, David Tracz said. (Courtesy of //3877; photo by Gabriele Stabile)

To make the very tall space feel smaller, //3877 used metal rigs that hold lights, speakers and some bar components. (Courtesy of //3877; photo by Gabriele Stabile)

White oak is a consistent component in Momofuku's design. (Courtesy of //3877; photo by Gabriele Stabile) — White oak is another major component in Momofuku’s design. (Courtesy of //3877; photo by Gabriele Stabile)

Streetsense's design for The Dabney (122 Blagden Alley NW) emulates a colonial home, lending a refined yet relaxed, intimate feeling. "It feels like you鈥檙e at someone鈥檚 kitchen," Jason Maringola said. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers) — Streetsense’s design for The Dabney (122 Blagden Alley NW) emulates a colonial home, lending a refined yet relaxed, intimate feeling. “It feels like you鈥檙e at someone鈥檚 kitchen,” Jason Maringola said. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers)

Streetsense partnered with chef Jeremiah Langhorne in designing the space. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers) — Streetsense partnered with chef Jeremiah Langhorne in designing The Dabney’s space. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers)

For Daikaya (705 Sixth St. NW), Streetsense traveled to Japan to ensure authenticity in its work. Designer Brian Miller used dark woods in the upstairs area, complementing the Japanese comfort food. (Courtesy Streetsense/Nikolas Koenig) — For Daikaya (705 Sixth St. NW), Streetsense traveled to Japan to ensure authenticity. Designer Brian Miller used dark woods in the upstairs area, complementing the Japanese comfort food. (Courtesy Streetsense/Nikolas Koenig)

//3877 also helped design the second Succotash location (915 F St. NW), located inside D.C.'s Equitable Bank Building. (Courtesy //3877 ; Clarence Butts) — //3877 helped design the second Succotash location (915 F St. NW), located inside D.C.’s Equitable Bank Building. (Courtesy //3877; Clarence Butts)

The bar at Succotash offers a button-down variation on its Southern charm. (Courtesy //3877 ; Clarence Butts) — The bar at Succotash offers a button-down variation on its Southern charm. (Courtesy //3877; Clarence Butts)

//3877's design of The Smith (901 F St. NW) sets black and white tile on the brasserie's floors against contrasting tile on the wall. (Courtesy //3877 ; Clarence Butts) — //3877’s design of The Smith (901 F St. NW) sets black and white floor tile against contrasting tile on the brasserie’s walls. (Courtesy //3877; Clarence Butts)

The Smith's backlit wooden bar radiates a warm glow on thirsty diners. (Courtesy //3877 ; Clarence Butts) — The Smith’s backlit wooden bar radiates a warm glow on thirsty diners. (Courtesy //3877; Clarence Butts)

At All Set (8630 Fenton St., Silver Spring), Streetsense complemented the coastal New England cuisine with a contemporary nautical look. (Courtesy Streetsense/Wayne E. Chinnock)

Streetsense's approach to Tail Up Goat (1827 Adams Mill Road NW) gives a nod to co-owner Jill Tyler's origins in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Cheery hues and seascape-inspired murals ensure a breezy ambience. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers) — Streetsense’s approach to Tail Up Goat (1827 Adams Mill Road NW) gives a nod to co-owner Jill Tyler’s origins in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Cheery hues and seascape-inspired murals ensure a breezy ambience. (Courtesy Streetsense/Greg Powers)

Streetsense maintained the "beach house fun" vibe at Coastal Flats' third location in Gaithersburg (135 Crown Park Ave.) with custom murals and an open ceiling. (Courtesy Streetsense/Ira Wexler) — Streetsense maintained the “beach house fun” vibe at Coastal Flats’ third location in Gaithersburg (135 Crown Park Ave.) with custom murals and an open ceiling. (Courtesy Streetsense/Ira Wexler)

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So how does a designer evoke that feeling? It鈥檚 theater, so think like a writer: Figure out the audience. Who鈥檚 the target customer? What鈥檚 the neighborhood? Who鈥檚 the chef? What鈥檚 on the menu?

鈥淲hat you鈥檙e trying to do is, if you will, create a behavior out of [diners],鈥� said Herb Heiserman, Streetsense鈥檚 managing principal. 鈥淪o you have to be really deliberate in what you choose today to hang on a wall, to put on a floor, to play through the stereo.鈥�

It might require some additional research, and it definitely requires an intimate knowledge of what the client wants. Most come in with some idea, said David Tracz of //3877, but it might require showing them a gallery of visuals to get an immediate sense, then narrowing down those preferences.

In the case of //3877鈥檚 first-ever project 鈥� Matchbox鈥檚 14th Street location 鈥� they had a good sense of preferences from Matchbox鈥檚 other locations, but //3877 had the added challenge of expanding on the established restaurant鈥檚 brand in a unique, historic location: the former rehearsal studio for Arena Stage (1901 14th St. NW).

The space, which had also been a jazz club way back when, spans multiple floors. Demolition at the site revealed a steel-and-wood skeleton, which was incorporated into the design, along with exposed brick walls.

Within that, they took an adventurous cue from the Capitol Hill location鈥檚 wooden box-shaped booths. In the 14th Street space, two booths (which seat six each) are actually elevated above the bar. 鈥淚n a two-story space, that鈥檚 a pretty exciting place to sit,鈥� Tracz said.

鈥淲e were like, 鈥極K, if we鈥檙e going to push the envelope, let鈥檚 get stupid with it,鈥欌€� said //3877鈥檚 David Shove-Brown.

But as they later added, one can鈥檛 get too stupid with a vision.

Visual/practical balance

A practical consideration during this visionary process: Chefs and servers have a job to do, too. A floor plan can鈥檛 be so exotic that it gets in the way of good business.

鈥淭here鈥檚 almost mathematical formulas based on 鈥楬ow do you circulate around a restaurant?鈥欌€� said Shove-Brown. 鈥淲hat makes sense? What doesn鈥檛 make sense? How do you work efficiently when you鈥檙e dropping off dirty dishes and picking up food ready to go out?鈥�

Maringola has a unique perspective on this, which he applies to his design work: He worked in restaurants while in college.

鈥淚 think that鈥檚 the one thing that a lot of designers today are trying to accomplish 鈥� is not just from the experience of the restaurantgoer but the [experience of] who is servicing, who is going to be working behind those back-of-house lines,鈥� he said.

Understanding those fundamental needs, he said, contributes to an easygoing experience for the customer.

Tackling Isabella Eatery

For one noteworthy project 鈥� the 40,000-square-foot Isabella Eatery food hall in Tysons 鈥� Maringola and Streetsense were tasked with creating a space that comprised several restaurant concepts and dining areas. In a sense, it was nine projects in one at the shopping mall.

Making such an ambitious idea an easygoing experience for an educated, cosmopolitan customer base required a fair amount of thought, Maringola said. What they found: Diners would want a space where they can have intimate moments yet still be in touch with their surroundings.

Maringola is happy with the result. 鈥淵ou鈥檙e not forced into being in a restaurant but you鈥檙e engaged within the restaurant, and then it also becomes a level of theatrics, which is really nice.鈥�

He singled out Kapnos Marketa鈥檚 30-foot banquette as a feature that facilitates diner engagement. 鈥滻t鈥檚 this tier effect looking into an open kitchen, and you get to experience what the chef is creating,鈥� Maringola said.

The trend question

Inviting that engagement raises a question: How trendy should the design be? Should one aim, instead, to be timeless? The answer isn’t so simple.

鈥淚t鈥檚 rare that something speaks to a recurring, demanding customer for years upon years upon years,鈥� said Heiserman of Streetsense. 鈥淚 think we all ought to understand that it should be timeless as best we can, but timeless changes with time.鈥�

Shove-Brown agreed.

鈥淓ven the most classical architecture wasn鈥檛 timeless,鈥� he said. 鈥淚 think part of the beauty of design is that it does evolve and that it does change and allow for that.

鈥淚 think that鈥檚 the beauty of what we get to do.鈥�

Check out local standout designs from //3877 and Streetsense in the gallery.

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